A Luxury Scottish Bothy Experience at Inverlonan
As we whiz down the dirt track in a rickety golf buggy alongside the sparkling shores of Loch Nell, I am filled with a sort of nervous anticipation for catching a glimpse of where we would be staying that evening. It is a golden afternoon in late summer and conditions couldn’t be better; a virtually cloudless sky, warm air and not a midge in sight — rather rare for a September day in Scotland.
My partner, Harvey, and I are at the end of a two-week van trip around the Outer Hebrides and feeling somewhat exhausted, a little clammy from our now sand and sea-salt covered van, and all but ready for the promised wild luxury that awaited us that evening. I had actually been talking excitedly about this particular night for the entire trip, wondering if the photos I had seen of the little bothy sitting peaceful on the banks of a Scottish loch would live up to my already high expectations…
And then, there it was, just as lovely as I imagined. A vision of rusty red sitting beneath a lush Oak tree, the deep blue waters of Loch Nell just a few feet away. I practically skipped down the remainder of the track to the wooden deck outside Uisge Bothy, our home for the evening. In almost the same way that, after a long hike in the hills in search of shelter, the sight of a bothy can fill a tired hillwalker with utter joy and relief, so too did seeing Inverlonan nestled in its own slice of off-grid wilderness.
As the golf buggy whizzes back along the track leaving just Harvey, I and a couple of rucksacks of essentials for the evening, I breathe in a deep sigh of calm relief and skip barefoot straight down to the shores of the loch.
Words by Athena Mellor
Photography by Athena Mellor & David Harvey
A Luxury Bothy Experience
According to the Mountain Bothy Association website, a bothy is defined as a “simple shelter in remote country for the use & benefit of all who love wild & lonely places.” Inverlonan describe themselves as “reimagining the bothy experience”, and it’s clear to see elements of the traditional bothy in their structures and setting, with a little bit of modern luxury thrown in. There are, in fact, two bothies on the Inverlonan Estate, Uisge and Beatha, named from the Gaelic “Uisge Beatha” meaning “Water of Life”. Both architecturally designed cabins are ecologically driven and off-grid, yet just a 15 minute drive and 5 minute golf buggy ride from the hub of Oban, known as Scotland’s gateway to the highlands and islands.
Stepping inside Uisge bothy and the busy-ness of modern life gets swept instantly away. My eyes are initially drawn to the large glass window which looks out onto the quiet shores of Loch Nell framed by oak branches. Beside it, a small sofa with a soft sheepskin from Skye looks inviting, and I can already see myself sipping my morning coffee right in this spot (and now, looking back, wishing to be transported directly to this moment).
All of the contents of the bothy are carefully sourced, from the ash of the table, ladder and kitchen coming from the banks of Loch Awe and shaped by local craftsman, Michael Acey, to the beautiful stoneware from Argyll Pottery. Heading further afield, there is quality cookware from Shropshire-based Netherton Foundry, a cosy woollen throw from Wales’ Melin Tregwynt and artwork from Emma Wood of Woodpop. There is, of course, a small wood-burner to warm up beside on the cooler evenings, or to cook on when the weather doesn’t allow you to make an open fire outside. The bed is nestled on a mezzanine in the roof, cosy and comfortable with linen sheets to rest your head, with a full belly and tired legs from a day roaming the wilderness of Inverlonan.
Wild Food
Just as each component inside the bothies has been carefully considered, so too has the dining experience at Inverlonan. For cooking, there are a few different options that all add to the off-grid wilderness experience (without having to hunt or catch your own food, that is). The first option (which we chose, given the tropical Scottish weather we were blessed with) is to cook outside on the firepit. We ordered a meat BBQ box (seafood and vegetarian options are also available), with high-quality meat sourced from in and around the local area. We enjoyed delicious burgers on sourdough rolls, and homemade potato wedges cooked in the Stadler, all washed down with a glass of velvety red and some delightful chunks of Oban Chocolate Company artisanal chocolate, while the light dimmed and the moon shimmered across the loch.
Breakfast is an equally delectable event… hand-grind Oban Coffee Company beans while the fire is in the making, then start with homemade muesli and creamy yoghurt from Rora Dairy. Local eggs, bacon, black-pudding, and sourdough from Solace Bakery on the Isle of Seil will fuel you for the day ahead, and in my humble opinion there is nothing much better than enjoying breakfast outside over an open fire, perhaps precluded by a chilly dip in the loch, which on that particular morning held a perfect mirror reflection inviting us to explore its hidden depths.
OFF-GRID SECLUSION
Perhaps what makes Inverlonan so special are its natural surroundings. Nestled on the shores of Loch Nell, in the valley of Glen Lonan, the area is rich in history and mythology. The Strontoiller Stone Circle sits not far from the bothies themselves and is well-worth a visit. Nearby is the13ft standing stone of Clach Na Caraig, and remnants of hut circles and burial sites can be found all around the area. Today, the Inverlonan Estate have planted a 100 hectare broadleaf woodland with predominantly oak, beech and birch trees and are committed to encouraging biodiversity in the area.
Directly from the front door of the bothy, you can enjoy hiking, swimming, stand up paddle boarding and kayaking (SUPS and kayaks provided by Inverlonan). Heading further afield, there are direct ferries to Mull, Colonsay and other islands from Oban, while boat trips, sea kayaking, bike hire and more are also available nearby. Or perhaps, you might take your time at Inverlonan to simply unwind, relax, swim a little, walk a little, but really not do much of anything but soak in the beauty of nature, the crackle of the fire, the sound of the water lapping against the shore…
SLOW LIVING
The beauty of the experience of staying somewhere wild, remote, immersed in nature is that it allows you the simple pleasure of slowing down. At Inverlonan, phone service is sparse, there are no roads nearby and hardly any other people but those wandering on foot or roaming by bike. Sipping my morning coffee with the view of the loch at dawn was a moment of pure bliss and clarity. A moment to remind myself to take more moments like this…
I am certainly guilty of rushing around, eager to see and do as much as possible while on a trip. It’s only natural, when the awe of exploring a new area is overwhelming. Yet what I am discovering is that there is as much awe to be found in sitting on the wooden deck of a little bothy under a big oak tree, barefoot, coffee cup in hand, the first signs of Autumn in the leaves on the ground, yet a distinct smell of summer in the warmth of the air.
Inverlonan was a wonderful reminder to live with the seasons, and to be at one with nature in every possible moment of every day. Whether that be making a fire in order to boil water to have a cup of tea, or looking out the big glass windows to the calm loch from a cosy sofa inside, or running barefoot across the way to use the loo. There is joy in every moment at Inverlonan, and those simple yet beautiful memories still linger in my mind. Memories like the moment the sun dipped behind the trees above the loch, or the crackling of the fire with a glass of wine in hand, or seeing the stars appear above that little bothy underneath the big Oak tree.
Inverlonan is situated 6 miles from Oban on the West Coast of Scotland, with two small bothies on the banks of Loch Nell. Both bothies sleep two and prices include a ‘Farm to Bothy’ breakfast, renewable power, eco toilet, fire pit, canoe and paddle-board access to explore the loch and more. Dogs are allowed at Beatha bothy for an additional fee.
See more about Inverlonan here.
Book your stay at Inverlonan here.
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Inverlonan
Ballygowan Farm
Oban PA34 4QE
Scotland