I’m not sure what it is that keeps drawing me back to the Isle of Mull. Maybe it’s the warm, soft light of pink and blue evenings, or the white sand beaches and turquoise waters stretching towards the distant mountains of mainland Scotland, with Islay and Jura lying quietly to the south. Perhaps it’s the authentic rhythm of Scottish island life — small communities gathered in coastal villages, tiny cafés serving homemade dishes, and the hum of laughter spilling from ancient pubs, even on a Sunday night.
It might be the sense of history that lingers here: the echoes of fishing communities who braved wild seas to remain on this island, the boats rocking gently in the bays, the yellow irises brightening the verges in spring, or the low clouds draping the mountains like a white, downy blanket on a dreich day. Whatever it is, I know my time on Mull isn’t over — and I’m already longing for my next trip to this special corner of the Inner Hebrides.
Mull is world-renowned for wildlife. You might glimpse dolphins or even whales from the ferry, while on land, golden and white-tailed eagles soar overhead, otters make their home along the shores and rivers, and puffins return each spring to the nearby Treshnish Isles. In the surrounding waters, seals haul out on rocky islets, minke whales feed in the bays, basking sharks cruise past, and — on rare occasions — orca are spotted. Highland cows, sheep, and red deer roam freely across the landscape.
Although Mull boasts superb walking routes, I often find myself slowing down here — lingering over coffee in a cosy café, exploring quiet beaches, or camping beneath star-filled skies. In this guide, you’ll find my favourite places to eat, drink, camp, and explore the island’s wild beauty.
Getting there
The Isle of Mull is easily reached from the mainland by ferry, with the most popular route running from Oban to Craignure. Operated by CalMac Ferries, the crossing takes just 45 minutes — just enough time to enjoy a coffee or a meal inside and watch for dolphins, porpoises, or seabirds along the way.
Ferries run several times a day, but in peak seasons it’s worth booking in advance to secure your preferred sailing time. If you’re driving, you can take your car or campervan on board for flexibility in exploring the island, though foot passengers can also make use of local buses and taxis once on Mull. You can book your tickets here.
When to visit
While Mull is beautiful year-round, early spring is one of our favourite times to visit. Wildflowers begin to bloom along the verges, including yellow irises and bluebells, adding bursts of colour to the landscape. Wildlife spotting is at its peak — puffins return to the Treshnish Isles to nest (from April), eagles soar overhead, and otters are often seen along the shoreline. The days are growing longer, the weather is starting to settle, and the infamous Scottish midges are not yet in full force.
If you prefer warmer days and lively summer energy, June to August is ideal, though it’s also the busiest season. Autumn brings golden hillsides and quieter roads, while winter offers a wilder, more remote charm.
How long to stay
Although you could loop around Mull in two or three days, we recommend spending at least a week if you can. This gives you time to explore at a slower pace, visit outlying islands such as Iona or Ulva, and perhaps take a wildlife boat trip or two. You’ll have the chance to see more of Mull’s varied landscapes — from white sand beaches and rugged coastlines to moorland and mountain views — without feeling rushed. Staying longer also means you can truly settle into the island’s rhythm, whether that’s lingering in cosy cafés, chatting with locals in a pub, or simply watching the tide roll in from your campsite.
In this guide
Lochbuie
Camping area
Lochbuie is a real hidden gem in the southern part of the Isle of Mull. Only reached by following a one way road for over 8 miles, passing beautiful woodlands and mountain views, at the end of the road you’ll find the Old Post Office Tearoom sitting on the edge of the bay, with a camping area a little further around to the right. You can stay here by paying £5 to the Old Post Office and wake up to some of the best views on the island, in a setting that is peaceful and remote.
From the camping area, you have good access to some walks (leaflets can be found at the Old Post Office), as well as historic Moy Castle and beautiful Laggan Sands, one of my personal favourite beaches on the island. There’s no phone service here but the Old Post Office has WiFi and they leave the toilet open all night for users of the camping area.
Getting there: Lochbuie is at the end Lochbuie Road. Turn left off the main Craignure to Bunessan road, continue along this windy road until you get to the village of Lochbuie (this is not really a village, more a group of houses spread out over 1 mile). When you reach the sea and the Old Post Office, you can find the camping area around to the right and then left down a gravel driveway.
Laggan Sands
site of interest
Laggan Sands is one of those places that will have you muttering, ‘I can’t believe this is in Scotland’ over and over again. Though the temperature of the water might remind you that you are not, in fact, in some tropical paradise, but a Scottish one instead. Laggan Sands is a wide, sandy beach in the southern part of the island, only accessible on foot or by bike from Lochbuie. The mighty figure of Ben Buie stands imposingly above the beach, drawing you towards it, yet it would be all too easy to stay lounging on the soft, silvery sand and splashing in the calm waters for a whole day.
Though the water is cold, the beach is child-friendly as the water remains shallow for some time. It’s also a fantastic place for wildlife spotting, with birds soaring overhead, while on the walk over you’ll pass Moy Castle and the Lochbuie Standing Stones that make for interesting stops.
Getting there: Park in the parking area next to the Old Post Office Tearoom (see directions above) then follow the signs that head north to the beach.
oLD poST oFFICE tEAROOM
CAFÉ | Lochbuie | oldpostofficelochbuie.co.uk
You can’t miss the Old Post Office Tearoom on a trip to the Isle of Mull; a family run café and farm shop serving up delicious seafood, homemade cakes and great coffee with a breathtaking view over the bay at Lochbuie. Cosy up inside the café on a rainy day, or sit outside on the picnic tables to really marvel at the view — with deep blue waters and grassy peaks towering above.
The menu changes daily and features the likes of langoustines with a Marie Rose sauce, smoked salmon and trout salad, homemade soup and mushroom stroganoff. Cakes will easily tempt you as well, with traditional bakes like ginger bread, date slice and chocolate brownies. The Old Post Office uses Argyll Coffee to make delicious hot drinks while in the fridge there is a great selection of cold, refreshing drinks as well. You can also pick up some meat from the estate, milk or homemade ready meals from the Lochbuie Larder, with the likes of Lochbuie wild venison lasagne, Shellfield Farm burnt aubergine chilli and chocolate orange brioche pudding for dessert.
I’d recommend travelling down to the Old Post Office for lunch then visiting Laggan Sands to really make the most of a day at Lochbuie, a beautiful, secluded corner of the Isle of Mull.
Getting there: The Old Post Office Tearoom is situated at the end of the Lochbuie Road. Turn left off the main Craignure to Bunessan road, continue along this windy road until you get to the village of Lochbuie (this is not really a village, more a group of houses spread out over 1 mile). When you get to the sea – the Old Post Office is on your right hand side and there is lots of parking to the left of the main road.
Ardalanish Farm & Weavers
site of interest
Set on 1,500 acres of working farmland, Ardalanish Weavers is a place where traditional craft and beautiful scenery come together. The farm is home to its own cattle and sheep, and is well known for producing high-quality wool products in its weaving shed. Whether you’re passionate about textiles or simply curious to see something a little different, it’s well worth a visit while you’re on Mull.
In the weaving shed, you can watch skilled weavers at work, turning raw fleece into beautifully finished textiles. The on-site shop is filled with throws, blankets, jumpers, cushions and other handmade pieces, each one reflecting the care and skill that goes into its making.
Guided tours are available for those who want to explore further, taking you around the farm and sharing stories of its history, landscape, and commitment to sustainable farming. From April to October, you can also pick up a homemade pasty made with the farm’s own meat, as well as ice cream and hot or cold drinks. And just beyond the fields lies Ardalanish Beach — the perfect place for a walk to round off your visit.
Getting there: Turn off the A849 at Bunessan and follow the signs for Ardalanish which is just over 2 miles away.
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creel seafood bar
takeaway CAFÉ | fionnhport
In the centre of Fionnphort, you’ll find a small seafood bar that’s a firm favourite with both locals and visitors. The smell of freshly cooked fish and chips drifts through the air, tempting you in to try the day’s catch. The menu makes the most of locally caught seafood — from crisp, golden scallops and tender scampi to homemade fishcakes and zesty salt and pepper squid.
You can enjoy your meal at the wooden benches outside, or take it with you to Fionnphort’s beach or pier, where views stretch across aquamarine waters to the Isle of Iona on the horizon.
Getting there: The seafood bar is located down by the pier in Fionnphort. There is plenty of pay and display parking in the village.
Calgary Bay
site of interest / camping area
Calgary is the largest and most accessible beach in the north of Mull — a sweeping stretch of soft white sand framed by rocky cliffs and rolling green hills. Its crystal-clear waters invite you for a refreshing swim on a calm day, while the wide shoreline is perfect for a leisurely wander in search of a quiet spot to call your own.
Above the beach, follow the Art in Nature woodland trail: a gentle route threaded with sculpture and carvings that climbs to the gallery and café overlooking the bay. For refreshments, the café at Calgary Bay (Calgary Bay Co) serves coffee, cakes and light lunches — opening hours vary seasonally, so it’s worth checking ahead. You can also park overnight here in a campervan for a small fee to the cafe. At the south end of the bay, there’s another simple, designated camping area for tents and small vehicles (no hook-ups) with public toilets nearby. Please camp considerately and leave no trace.
Getting there: Calgary Beach is around a 25-minute drive from Tobermory, following the B8073 west through Dervaig. There’s a car park right by the beach, but it can fill up quickly in summer — arriving early or later in the day will give you a better chance of a peaceful visit.
Isle of iona
site of interest
Nestled off the southwest coast of Mull in the Inner Hebrides lies the enchanting Iona, a picturesque island spanning a mere 1.5 miles in width and 3 miles in length. Home to around 170 permanent residents, this small piece of land holds a cherished place in the hearts of people worldwide.
Despite its modest size, Iona draws visitors from far and wide due to its stunning natural beauty, rich historical legacy, and tranquil atmosphere. From unspoiled beaches to lush green landscapes and a tapestry of history and culture. Be sure to visit the Iona Abbey, a renowned spiritual and cultural centre that has captured the imagination of pilgrims and historians alike for centuries. Iona Campsite and Iona Pods make for great places to stay, or book the unique Green Shed with the Snug and Studio sleeping 2 people or the Sea Room sleeping up to 10. Beaches around the island are truly spectacular, particularly in the north with views back to the mainland mountains of Mull.
Whether you seek a tranquil retreat or a sense of spiritual renewal, Iona promises to provide solace and an opportunity to reconnect with oneself. It’s a place that will keep luring you back with memories of the white sand and turquoise seas remaining etched in your mind.
Getting there: Take a boat to Iona from Fionnphort. See further information here. There’s no need to book the boat in advance, simple turn up at the port and get your ticket.
tobermory
town
Tobermory, located on the Isle of Mull, is a beautiful town renowned for its picturesque waterfront. With bobbing boats and breathtaking bay views, it’s an idyllic setting with a lovely assortment of shops, cafés, and restaurants.
For those seeking coffee and cake, we’d recommend An Tobar in the heart of the town. If seafood is more to your taste, be sure to visit Cafe Fish for locally-caught seafood. Just outside the town, a visit to Isle of Mull Cheese is an absolute must. This beautiful destination offers visitors a unique experience with its on-site dairy and distillery. Immerse yourself in the process of cheese-making and indulge in the rich flavors of their renowned cheeses. Additionally, the café and farm shop, adorned with expansive windows that provide beautiful views of the surrounding countryside, is a must-visit stop.
After a wander around the town, be sure to head for a walk in Aros Park; walking trails weave through lush green woodland with captivating views onto the ocean.
staffa
boat trip / island tour | staffatrips.co.uk
A visit to Staffa is one of the most memorable trips you can take from Mull. Just a short boat ride from the island’s west coast, Staffa’s cliffs rise steeply from the sea, their striking hexagonal basalt columns formed by ancient volcanic activity. The island’s most famous feature is Fingal’s Cave, a vast sea cave that seems almost sculpted by hand. Standing at its entrance, you’ll hear the echo of waves reverberating deep inside — a sound that inspired Mendelssohn’s famous Hebrides Overture.
From April to August, puffins nest on the grassy slopes above the cliffs. These characterful seabirds are remarkably unfazed by visitors, giving you the chance to watch them up close as they come and go from their burrows. A half-day trip to Staffa is perfect if you want to see the cave, spot puffins in season, and still have time for other adventures back on Mull.
Getting there: Boats to Staffa run from several departure points on Mull, including Fionnphort and Ulva Ferry. Journey times vary depending on conditions, but are usually around 45 minutes each way. Trips are weather dependent, so it’s worth checking ahead and booking in advance during peak season.
Booking: There are a number of tour companies that run tours to Staffa. We went with Staffa Trips and would highly recommend.
staffa & the treshnish isles
boat trip / island tour
For a longer day on the water, opt for a full-day trip that takes in both Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. After exploring Fingal’s Cave and the dramatic cliffs of Staffa, the boat continues to the Treshnish group — a scattering of uninhabited islands rich in wildlife and history.
Between April and early August, Lunga (the largest of the Treshnish Isles) becomes home to large colonies of puffins, guillemots, razorbills, and other seabirds. The puffins here are particularly photogenic, often perched just a few feet away on the grassy cliff edges. You’ll also have time to wander the island, explore its wildflower-strewn slopes, and take in sweeping views across the archipelago.
On the journey, keep an eye out for dolphins, minke whales, and basking sharks, as well as gannets diving dramatically into the sea. A full-day trip is a wonderful way to combine the drama of Staffa with the abundant wildlife of the Treshnish Isles.
Getting there: Full-day tours depart from Fionnphort, Ulva Ferry, and Tobermory, with most including several hours ashore on Lunga as well as time on Staffa. Booking ahead is strongly advised, especially in puffin season.
Booking: There are a number of companies you can book this trip with. We went with Staffa Tours and had a great experience.
Fidden Farm Campsite
Campsite | Fionnphort | fiddenfarm.co.uk
Set in a stunning spot on Mull’s south-west coast, Fidden Farm Campsite combines natural beauty with a relaxed, family-friendly feel. Just over a mile from the village of Fionnphort, this family-run, working farm has been cared for by three generations, who tend a flock of 600 sheep and 20 cows while keeping the campsite’s charm very much intact.
The site sits right beside a pristine white sand beach — perfect for paddling, beachcombing, or simply sitting back to watch the sunset. There’s plenty of open space for children to run around, while the peaceful setting makes it easy for the grown-ups to unwind.
In nearby Fionnphort, you’ll find a small seafood bar serving fresh local catches, the friendly Keel Row pub for an evening meal, and a little shop with basic supplies. From here, boats leave for the island of Iona, known for its history and spiritual heritage, or you can join a wildlife trip to Staffa to see the puffins during spring and early summer.
Whether you spend your days exploring the coast or simply relaxing on the sand, Fidden Farm offers a memorable base for your time on the Isle of Mull.
Getting there: Fidden Farm Campsite is located just 1.5 miles from Fionnphort. Follow the signs from the village.
Bookings: The campsite do not take bookings; you can simply turn up to get a spot.
Ulva
island
Just a short ferry ride from Mull, the island of Ulva feels like stepping back in time. Community-owned and rich with history, it offers a rare sense of peace and seclusion. Five signposted walking routes lead you through landscapes that have changed little over the centuries — from wildflower meadows to windswept coastal paths. As you wander, you’ll find echoes of the island’s past in the ruins of crofts and churches, and the stories shared by the small community who keep Ulva alive. It’s well-worth visiting Ulva for a full day trip or simply half a day for a short walk and visit to the pub.
Getting there: The Ulva Ferry is on Mull’s west coast, around a 35-minute drive from Tobermory or 45 minutes from Craignure. The small passenger ferry runs on demand — simply slide the wooden signal across to summon the boat. The crossing takes just a minute, and from there, the island is yours to explore.
The boathouse, ulva
pub | ulva | theboathouseulva.com
Tucked beside the ferry slipway on Ulva, The Boathouse is a seafood lover’s dream. Its rustic charm pairs perfectly with the spectacular waterside setting, where you can watch boats bob in the bay as you dine. The menu celebrates the best of the island’s catch — from plump, buttery scallops to fresh lobster, mussels, and crab, all prepared with care and flair. It’s homemade, hearty, and arguably the best seafood you’ll find on Mull. Whether you’re fresh from a walk or simply soaking in the views, a meal here is the perfect end to a day on Ulva.
Getting there: The Boathouse is right beside the Ulva Ferry slipway, just a minute’s walk from where the boat drops you off. Reach the ferry by car or bus from Mull’s west coast, then enjoy the short crossing. Opening days vary by season, so check ahead before you travel.
kilninian beach
beach
Hidden away on Mull’s north-west coast, Kilninian Beach is a peaceful spot that locals love to keep to themselves. Here, dark, velvety sand meets the glittering turquoise waters of Loch Tuath, with sweeping views across to the island of Ulva. Rocky outcrops invite you to scramble, explore rockpools, or perch with a picnic while you watch the tide ebb and flow. On a quiet day, it feels like your own private slice of coastline — just the sound of the waves and the cry of seabirds for company.
Getting there: Kilninian Beach is around a 20-minute drive from Tobermory, following the B8073 west towards Calgary. Look for a small pull-in near Kilninian Church, then take the short path down to the shore. Parking is limited.
croft 3 Mull
CAFÉ / restaurant | fanmore | croft3mull.com
Perched above Mull’s rugged coastline, Croft 3 is a café/restaurant that blends contemporary design with the island’s wild beauty. Inside, the airy space is filled with light and warmth, where the scent of freshly baked bread and locally roasted coffee drifts through the air. The menu is a love letter to Mull’s produce — think rich seafood chowder, vibrant seasonal salads, and indulgent homemade cakes. With its breathtaking sea views and the warmest of welcomes from its owners, Croft 3 isn’t just a restaurant — it’s an experience you’ll remember long after you leave.
Getting there: Croft 3 is located near Croig on Mull’s north-west coast, about 35 minutes’ drive from Tobermory. Follow the B8073 through Dervaig, continuing west until you reach signs for Croig. The café has a small car park on site.
Photos courtesy of Croft 3
eas fors
waterfall
On Mull’s west coast, Eas Fors is one of the island’s most dramatic waterfalls — and unusually, it’s made up of three separate falls. The first tumbles from the hills into a dark, peaty pool; the second drops again further downstream; and the third plunges straight from the cliffs into Loch Tuath below. It’s a spectacular sight after rain, when the water thunders over the rocks, but even on a calm day the setting is beautiful, with sweeping views across to the Isle of Ulva and beyond.
A short path from the roadside leads to viewpoints over the middle and upper falls, but take care — the rocks can be slippery and the drops are sheer. If you’re visiting in summer, keep an eye out for dragonflies around the pools and wildflowers growing in the damp ground.
Getting there: Eas Fors is about a 25-minute drive from Tobermory, heading west on the B8073 towards Calgary. The waterfall sits close to the road just before you reach the hamlet of Kilbrennan. There’s a small lay-by for parking nearby, but space is limited — please leave room for other vehicles and passing traffic. Good walking shoes are recommended, as the path can be muddy in wet weather.
