Off the Beaten Track & Into the Howgill Fells | Classic Comfort at Brownber Hall
A wrong turn lead us bumbling down a dirt track to a locked farm gate, just where Google Maps thought our B&B for the weekend was supposed to be. The phrase ‘off-the-beaten-track’ sprang to mind and I could already tell this weekend would be exactly what I needed - an escape, a retreat, far away from it all. We giggled our way back to the main road before spotting the grandiose yet welcoming figure of Brownber Hall in the distance. Pulling up in the light of a golden, winter afternoon and lacing on our hiking boots imminently, we set off rambling from Brownber down a farm track to explore a new part of our island; the Howgill Fells.
Words by Athena Mellor
Photography by Athena Mellor & Amira Mellor
Classic comfort
Built from local limestone in 1860, Brownber Hall is a quintessential Victorian house at the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales. The hall — situated in the Upper Lune Valley and overlooking the Howgill Fells — was once home to a prominent and influential family, the Fothergills, who lived in the area for generations. Today, its custodians are Peter and Amanda, who made the move from London in 2016 to restore and regenerate this beautiful manor house into the stylish yet cosy bed and breakfast it now is. Indeed, the pair have done an exceptional job of maintaining a classic, traditional feel in the property — with antique furniture and original decor — while also bringing a modern flair, with patterned cushions, eclectic artwork and some more modern furnishings.
Everything about Brownber Hall makes you feel warm and content; imagine sitting by the fire with a glass of red wine after a long walk in the hills, or tucking up into your big, double bed to read a good book and feel far away from it all. Brownber is the perfect escape ‘off-the-beaten-track’ and into the fells.
A double room at Brownber Hall
The lounge area at Brownber Hall
Help yourself to your own drinks from the honesty bar
a Local and homemade dining experience
I call Brownber’s dining an ‘experience’, because it really is just that. Indeed, I was almost quite unprepared for the delights I would find when settling into the restaurant one evening for dinner, and have done nothing but dream about that experience since then. From a sharing platter of Cumbrian air-dried meats, creamy mozzarella, succulent slow-roasted tomatoes and home-made bread, I moved onto the most delicious, local lamb dish with roasted potatoes and a perfectly light yet rich gravy. To end, we didn’t mind waiting the twenty minutes for the melt-in-the-middle chocolate fondant to share. Everything served at Brownber Hall is made with locally sourced, seasonal produce, with an Italian-style menu that includes delicious dishes like homemade black pepper fettuccine with truffle oil and parmesan, freshly-made sourdough pizzas, and affogato with homemade amaretti biscuits.
Breakfast is served daily from 8am until 10am and includes a selection of homemade granola, bread and jams, and then choose from tempting cooked breakfasts like the full english with Westmorland sausages and bacon, or waffles with summer berries and maple syrup. Then, fully-fuelled, lace on your boots and get ready for a day in the Howgill Fells. Brownber will also provide you with a packed lunch for your walk (for a small price) which we would highly recommend; thick cuts of sourdough can be served with cheese or ham, a packet of Yorkshire crisps, piece of fruit and our favourite hiking snack, the small but mighty Tunnocks bar.
Into the Fells…
There can be nothing so delightful as seeing frost-covered hills from your bedroom window, and knowing that you will be walking right into the heart of them that very day. This is what waking up at Brownber Hall is like. Views across the Upper Lune Valley and into the Howgill Fells are simply breathtaking, and not only can you enjoy rambles straight from the grand front door of Brownber Hall to the iconic packhorse bridge, or to the lovely Yew Fell for sunrise, but a short 15-20 minute drive takes you to some of the highest peaks in the area - The Calf & Yarlside.
After a morning sunrise just a 15 minute walk from our beds, we headed out on a gorgeous ramble to Cautley Spout and the Calf. Brownber Hall also sits just off the Coast to Coast walking path and the Dales High Way, while being within easy reach of the Lake District and further peaks in the Yorkshire Dales, like the famous Three Peaks walk. After your walk, we would highly recommend heading into the lovely village of Sedbergh to enjoy a coffee and cake from the Three Hares, and a wander around the village bookshops; the perfect way to end an idyllic stay at Brownber Hall.
Sunrise from Yew Fell
The track back to Brownber Hall
Looking over at Cautley Spout
Valleys enroute to The Calf
Heading towards The Calf, with views over to the Lake District
Our packed lunches from Brownber Hall
Summit of The Calf
Heading to Brownber Hall took me to a part of the U.K. I had never visited before, and indeed somewhere I’d never even heard of. The Howgill Fells are certainly not on everybody’s radar, and are not quite as well-known as the more popular parts of the Yorkshire Dales or the neighbouring Lake District fells. But for me, that is exactly what makes this part of Britain so special; it is peaceful, friendly, wild and beautiful. Its hills remain relatively untamed; with walking paths you have to look a little harder to find, fells with empty summits and views that take your breath away. We may have headed a little off the beaten track to find Brownber Hall, but we ended up exactly where we were supposed to be.
Thanks so much to Peter and Amanda for having us at Brownber Hall; for all the helpful information, kind hospitality and delicious food.
Brownber Hall is situated in the northwest of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, just 20 minutes from the book-town of Sedbergh. It has 8 beautifully designed bed and breakfast rooms with views over the Howgill Fells. It is dog-friendly and has rooms from £70 for a comfy single, and from £100 for a cosy double.
Offer: Until the 29th February 2020, you can get a 3rd night free at Brownber Hall.
Book your stay at Brownber Hall here.
Follow Brownber Hall on Instagram here.
See our Yorkshire Dales Guide for inspiration for your stay.
Brownber Hall
Newbiggin-on-Lune
Kirkby Stephen
Cumbria
CA17 4NX